Articlel From CKC

Here is a great article for the Canadian Kennel Club web page. This one is on Socializing your new puppy! Socializing is a key component to owning a puppy. When your dog is socialized to different situations at a young age the likeliness of them being fearful or acting out decreases! So get that pup out there, in a positive fun manner.

Socialization scavenger hunt



March 17, 2011, By Gillian Ridgeway, ARTICLE, BEHAVIOUR, TRAINING


When we think of a scavenger hunt, we think of a game where people collect items, usually outdoors and over a wide area. Now, take that concept and apply it to socializing your puppy, and you have a game that’s fun for the whole family and should ensure you’ve done your best to get your pup out and about and secure in the world.


Sure, many new puppy parents understand that socializing their new charge is a primary concern and think they are doing the right thing. But walking your pup down the same street, to the same park, to meet the same group of neighbourhood dogs isn’t enough. While we never think we’ll move to a more densely populated area, or live on a busier street, or have to take our dog on public transit, life has a funny way with its twists and turns. Dogs that have had a lot of exposure to unusual circumstances during their formative weeks tend to go with the flow more easily later on.


Making a plan


With this in mind, let’s play socialization scavenger hunt with our pups. To do this, you’ll need to construct a plan that incorporates as many unusual people, objects and scenarios your imagination can muster up and your neighbourhood can provide. (Before embarking on your hunt, check with your veterinarian that your pup’s vaccinations are up to date.)


Make a list to chart your progress. Mark all your goals in the first column and put three date columns beside it. Start your list with some obvious choices, then get creative. Keeping in mind that most of my clients live in a large metropolitan area, my list is as follows:


Your pup should


•go for 3 car rides;


•have a bath just for the fun of it;


•meet a senior citizen, or a man with a beard;


•meet someone using a wheelchair or cane;


•visit a local garden centre or hardware warehouse… or both;


•pop in for a visit to your veterinarian, just for a pat from someone in the reception area;


•visit two friends at their homes;


•take three biscuits from three school-aged children of various ages;


•ride the transit system;


•hear the vacuum cleaner and blender being used;


•while on a leash, meet a domestic pet such as a cat or rabbit. Of course, safety first for everyone;


•be driven to a different area of your city or town once a week, and walk among the streets and parks there;


•be left for one hour with a reliable friend.


You must always consider safety first. Provide the treats for your puppy and supply them to any friends, children and strangers you’re including in your plan. When driving your pup in the car, use a crate. Make sure all children are accompanied by a parent. These are just a few examples of what to socialize your pup to.


All things strange


You can also use your home to increase your puppy’s awareness of “all things strange.” You can do environment-awareness exercises yourself or with the help of family and friends. Put on a large hat. How about glasses? It’s important to get your puppy used to as much as possible. Children can be masters of disguise and silly walks. Use your imagination, but don’t scare your puppy. Your goal is to have him feel comfortable in these circumstances.


Add various surfaces and objects to your scavenger hunt list. Many pups are exposed to only carpet and tile indoors, and grass outside. Try getting him onto concrete, vinyl, scrunched up paper, stones, a sandy beach and rougher terrain. Even his toys should vary in size, shape and texture.


Now, what should you do if your puppy doesn’t take to our scavenger hunt as well as you’d like? It’s usually just a matter of pairing the strange thing with something good. If your pup backs away from anything, don’t force the issue. Instead, let your pup observe what he’s worried about from afar. While he’s looking at what is disturbing him, give him a treat or special toy. You’ll soon see him relax. You can try again on a different day with the same item or scenario. Take your time; it’s important to build up trust in your puppy. If he is still nervous, let him observe from further away.


Let’s take the blender or vacuum as an example. Both make a loud noise. Put your puppy a distance away, even in an adjoining room. Turn the blender on for a second, then feed your pup. Systematically desensitize him to the sound by bringing him closer over time, and putting the blender on for a few seconds longer. This can be done for most of the scenarios, with the key being to take your time. Although it seems that we are teaching him to tolerate the blender or vacuum cleaner noise, the lesson extends to any loud or unusual noise. He will tend not to panic as much as an adult if he has been exposed as a youngster.


Adding people


When it comes to adding people to your list, it’s important to incorporate children, men with hats and people using canes and walkers into your plan. Scavenger hunt means that you have to hunt out the people and situations you need.


Arm yourself with your pup’s favourite toys and treats.


Keep your pup on a leash, and have him sit. Don’t overwhelm him – it’s best to seek out one or two children initially, to see how he reacts. If he’s nervous, create distance, and reward him for just watching the children.


Adults can present a problem. If your pup is nervous around strangers, you need to be an ambassador for your pup. Many people will try to get closer, saying, “Dogs like me.” In fact, they can become insulted if your pup doesn’t come running toward them. Once again, let your pup take his time. Ask your helper to remain still and let the pup approach when he’s comfortable. It will work out best in the long run if he’s allowed to discover that people are friendly on his own terms, rather than being pushed too quickly. Give the reward to your pup yourself, rather than have it come from the stranger.


If you’re having a particularly difficult time, toss small treats close to your pup so he’s not under pressure to be social. It will still show him that when he sees something odd, good things happen for him.


And, although this is best done with younger pups, dogs of any age can benefit. My wonderful Pyrenean Shepherd, ‘Noah,’ came to me with a few fears and concerns of his own. It took five or six months of creating odd scenarios and seeking out loud and unusual noises (with many days spent in front of a grocery store, feeding him while the shopping carts rattled by). This may seem like a long time, but it went by fairly quickly and now I have a happy, secure, loving dog that’s able to travel and perform. It was easily worth the effort, and worked like a charm.


Before you know it, you will have created a secure adult dog, one that doesn’t panic when something or someone is unusual. This lesson will be worth its weight in gold moving forward with your puppy into adulthood, and all your extra effort will pay off

The Barking Dog

I read an amazing book! It is a great easy read! Usually it takes me forever to get through a book but this one only took 1 hrs to read. If you have ever questioned why your dog barks all the time or at certain things, this is the book for you. It's called Barking - The Sound of a Language by Turid Rugass.

Turid Rugaas seems to be an amazing behaviourist, I am now disappointed that I did not jump on the chance to see her speak in Calgary last August.

Here I have briefly laid out the book for you, but please go buy it if you want to learn more than what I show you!

The Barking Dog

A barking dog is divided into six major classifications.

1. Excitement Barking

2. Warning Barking

3. Fear Barking

4. Guard Barking

5. Frustration Barking

I've left the 6th one out so you have to buy the book! HA!



Excitement Barking:

Excitement barking expresses emotions ranging from happiness to the excited expectation of something good about to happen.

How It Sounds- It is a high frequency sound, and it can sound a little hysterical. Barking is more or less constant with winning in between barking.

Activity Involved- Because of the excitement level the dog will probably exhibit a higher stress level than usual. The dog will be moving more because his muscles are full of adrenalin, it’s impossible for him to keep still. Wagging of his tail and in some cases everything at once. Some dogs will go and pick something up in their mouth as well.

What Can We Do:

1. Be calm yourself. Your calmness will influence the dog.

2. Have some objects available and let the dog carry one of them. It’s difficult to bark when there is something in your mouth.

3. Ask the dog to fetch something, and then let the dog search and find it for you. Of course this will mean you have to teach him how to fetch you something.

4. If the dog is only a little agitated have him sit and stay just a few seconds before going and answering the door. Always use a hand signal as dogs will more likely be able to take cue on that when they are overly excited. Always be between the door and the dog.

Always reward the dog for silence. You want to make sure the dog does not associate the reward with barking so timing is key. example… Bark… Sit… Reward.



The Warning Bark

The warning bark is a vocal expression you will not hear as often as other types of barking. They will bark when they perceive others need some sort of warning.


How It Sounds: One short, sharp “Woof”, meaning “get away, the enemy is coming”.

Activity Involved: Flight from the threat is common; one pack member will stay back and take the responsibility to defend the rest. With human families the dog tend to learn that barking a lot is more useful as only one bark usually doesn’t get the attention of others.

What Can We Do: Since the dog might think his job is to warn the pack about danger and since this is a natural thing for a dog to do, we humans should react in some way to show we understand what the dog is expressing. It is important to communicate to the dog that you get the message, and that you will now take over responsibility for dealing with the threat.

1. The simplest thing to do is calmly place yourself between the dog and what appears to be the threat. This is one of the simplest and most efficient techniques to sue to inform the dog you heard him and are in charge.

2. Get up calmly without looking or talking to the dog.

3. Place yourself in front of the dog, between him and the sight or sound with your back to the dog. Hold your hands a little out from your body with the palm of your hands visible.

4. Stand still. Wait for the dog to be quiet or turns around and goes the other way.



Fear Barking:


Almost all dogs are afraid of certain things. When an individual feels fear the stress level goes up, this also happens with dogs.

How It Sounds: This bark will be high pitched, and come in long series of barks. Similar to excitement barking, but you will clearly hear the fear in the dog’s voice. This is a long series of hysterical barking which may end in a howl.

Activity Involved: Because of the high stress level involved the dog will be active, muscles full of adrenaline. The dog will be restless, running back and forth, looking out windows, scratching on doors, trying to get out.

Dogs can be fearful of many things or everything. Dogs are not born fearful this is a learned behavior over time.

What We Can Do:

1. Avoid whatever is making the dog afraid enough to start barking, especially during the times you are training him to stop being fearful.

2. Be careful not to show any reaction yourself. Do not talk to him, soothe him or pet him. Just act as though nothing happened, and the dog will be more likely to forget about it.

3. Do not pull or force the dog into a situation where he doesn’t feel safe. Wait, keep a loose leash, and let the dog decide when he feels safe.

4. Go between the dog and the scary thing, acting as a barrier.

5. Avoid an oncoming threat by curving away from it or changing directions.

6. Counter-conditioning can be very effective method.



Guard Barking


This kind of barking is probably the most misunderstood of all. It is usually accompanied by growling sounds, which people view as being aggressive. Guard barking occurs when a dog feels as though he needs to defend himself or something.

How It Sounds: If the dog is guard/defensive barking, there will usually be some growling in it, like: Grrrrr…. Bark, Bark…. Grrrrr. The guard barking sound will generally be shorter and deeper than fear barking.

Activity Involved: The dog will move forward, lunging towards the object he is defending himself against. He may try to scare something away by:

• Showing teeth

• Growling

• Lunging forward

• Snapping

• Barking

• And eventually biting

What We Can Do: It depends entirely on what the circumstances are that result in guard barking and what the dog is guarding or defending:

1. Avoid letting the dog get into a situation where he feels he has to defend himself.

2. Be quicker to pick up the signals that the dog gives off as he begins to feel defensive. Learn to recognize them before they escalate into stronger emotions.

3. Early in the situation before the dog finds it necessary to get defensive, you can show you are taking responsibility for things by going in between the dog and the object.

4. Walk the dog in a curving pattern past the approaching people or dogs since being approached directly and straight on is threatening for dogs. Even just a slight change in direction is good enough.

Training Techniques:

1. Parallel Walking: If the dog has a problem with other dogs, etc, start with parallel walking. This means setting up a situation in which you walk with your dog on a leash parallel to whatever he fears. With enough distance between the two of you to ensure the dog does not engage in a guard barking response. The distance will vary from dog to dog. Walk slowly in a relaxed fashion. Praise for good behavior.

2. Walking in a Curve: Make the dog follow you in a curve past the approaching dogs. The size of the curve depends on the dogs reaction. Slowly decreasing your curve.

3. Counter conditioning: Place the dog well away from an object that he has had a negative reaction to in the past. If he reacts to this situation calmly, you should praise and reward him. Providing the dog with a positive association to something he has reacted to negatively in the past will begin to change his attitude.



Frustration Barking:

This is the kind of barking that is heartbreaking to listen to. You can hear the desperation and frustration in the dog. Long term stress is always at the bottom of it. Being tied up, in a kennel too long, ignored, hunger, loneliness are a few examples.

How It Sounds: Endless rows of static barking, the same tone over and over and over.

Activity Involved: Typically a behavior that is repeated over and over and over. It causes certain hormones to be release which make the dog feel a little better and makes him better able to endure a terrible or hopeless situation.

What We Can Do: Frustration barking is painful to listen to. It means a dog is in real trouble.

1. Remove the dog from the situation that is causing frustration. Take him inside, be together with him.

2. Give him something to do- usually it doesn’t need to be much. Go for a walk now and then, Have him search for some treats in the yard.

The most important thing is for the dog to be part of the family. Do not leave your dog alone for long periods of time.

Frustration barking is the kind of barking that will start to occur when a dog becomes so desperate and frustrated over a long period of time that he starts adopting behaviors that will help him cope with the situation. Barking is one of these behaviors. If you cannot give your dog the time he needs than maybe you should think twice about having a dog.

Vaccinations and Training

Recently I received a couple e-mails regarding why a dog needs to be vaccinated to participate in dog obedience classes. I enjoy getting e-mails like this one, it gives me the opportunity to educated the public on issues that are important.

Why Does My Dog Need To Be Up To Date On Vaccinations???

To start off...

Dog vaccinations are an essential step towards a healthy immune system for your pet. Vaccines help prevent the spread of deadly and highly contagious diseases like rabies,parvovius, hepatitis and distemper (AKA Kennel Cough, which is an airborn disease).

Vaccinations are given to protect your pet from the life threatening diseases they come into contact with. When the vet injects your puppy with a vaccine, it "teaches" the puppy's immune system what a disease organism looks like. Your puppy's system will form anti-bodies to that disease making it possible for her to fight off that infection in the future and also to reduce the spread of disease in the dog population.

So why do we ask to see up to date vaccination records?

Easy, we want to make sure, we are responsible for our classes, that your dog and every other dog in the class has an opportunity to be in a safe environment.  Also, if your dog does not have their vaccinations it will increase the chances of catching a disease from something that may have been brought into the building/park by foot. Kennel cough for example is an airborne virus. This vaccination is not mandatory, it is suggested. Therefore, another dog may have the virus and be showing no symptoms. Ta-Da, your dog now has Kennel Cough.

If classes are being held in a park the trainer has no guarantee that the soil or grass may or may not contain a virus or disease. We also have to protect our equipment. Some trainers carry their equipment home or to other training facilities, therefor not wanting to spread the viruses or bacteria.

It has been found that even if a dog is vaccinated they still can contract the disease. Why would a professional want to put all the other dogs they come in contact with in jeopardy. It only takes one irresponsible owner to cause a facility to have an outbreak.

All professional dog trainers, groomers, and kennels should be asking to see if your dog is up to date on all their vaccinations. If they are not, ask why? It is your responsibility to take care and protect your dog, part of that is making sure they are from harms way of potential deadly diseases. To put it bluntly, it's being a responsible loving dog owner!

In conclusion, think twice before you pass up vaccinations!

Gardening Tips

It's that time of year again, or getting closer up here in Northern Alberta!

Here is a great article on gardening with your dog! This is taken from the Dogs In Canada web page.

Dogs and gardens; Splendor in the grass

A caller inquiring about Welsh Springers wanted to know if they’re diggers. I expect she’s worried about her garden.



Common sense goes a long way when dogs and gardens co-habit. My own garden has hardy plants that can take some abuse. Many native plants stand up well to the wear and tear of life with active dogs, generally demand less effort than their more exotic cousins, and don’t need doses of pesticide and fertilizer to look good. Containers are great plant-savers; urns or big clay pots are ideal for annuals and work well placed among the perennials, right in the flowerbeds, as well as on decks, steps and patios.




Good gardening practice


Use good gardening practices rather than insect- and weed-killers to control pests: build good soil for strong plants, choose plants that suit the conditions of your garden, opt for pest- and disease-resistant varieties, mow the grass high, hand-pick bugs and pull weeds.


Find out which plants are potentially harmful, then decide if you want them in your garden based on your dog’s inclination to chew things. Toxic plants include daffodils, azaleas and rhododendrons, foxglove, lily of the valley and tomato plants (the green parts).


Be prepared to compromise. A friend discovered that her dogs lost interest in the plants as playthings when she stopped fastidiously picking up every stick and windfall apple. My dogs developed a favorite route around the garden, beating it into a narrow path – behind the peonies, through the yew, around the hostas and under the spirea hedge. The dogs respect my plants and I respect their path. When I turn the beds, I leave the path alone.


Yellow spots


Yellow spots on the lawn are probably the biggest gardening challenge for dog owners. Bitches are the worst offenders since males don’t tend to void in one place. The popular remedy of giving your dog apple-cider vinegar or baking soda to modify the urine’s pH is risky, warns Jeff Grognet, D.V.M. “Adding acid or alkali to your dog’s body could send her blood chemistry out of balance.” Besides, it’s the concentration of nitrogen in the urine that burns the grass – the same effect as too much fertilizer.


Flushing the grass with water whenever your dog urinates isn’t practical, so Grognet suggests building up natural buffers by leaving grass clippings on the lawn, or spreading peat moss. “And once urine is broken down, it acts like a natural fertilizer, promoting grass growth.”


A secure fence and gate


A secure fence system is a must, but give some thought to the gate, too. A heavy-duty, spring-loaded hinge will ensure that the gate closes automatically if someone forgets, and if the gate is mounted to open in, it will close on any dog trying to get out.


Dogs capable of hunting for hours need an outlet for their energy. Regular exercise – routine walks, short training sessions, chances to run and play – will save the garden from unwanted attempts at re-landscaping. Give an incorrigible digger an inconspicuous spot to dig in to his heart’s content. Over the years, several dogs – my own and visitors – cooperated in digging a dog-size hole under one of the bushes in my garden. It’s a favorite retreat during the dog days of summer – cool, damp and ‘secret.’


I encourage you to check out Dogs in Canada's web page and search their articles. They have a wonderful collection that is loaded with a wealth of knowledge!

Exercise and Dogs

Now that the weather is becoming sunny and warm outside it's time to get that pooch out for some regular exercise. I have received a variety of phone calls this month on behaviour that I truly believe stems from lack of exercise and mental exhaustion in dogs. I came across this article from "Dog's In Canada", it's a great one! With that being said I've decided to share it with all of you!

Fit for life

April 8, 2011, By Natalie Ann Comeau, ARTICLE, ACTIVITIES


Are you sharing your life with a lazy Labrador? Or your couch with a portly Pekingese? Either way, you probably know that fitness is important for your dog’s health and well-being. Like humans, dogs that are overweight are at greater risk of diabetes, heart disease and respiratory problems, as well as increased wear and tear on their joints. Physically fit dogs, on the other hand, live longer, healthier lives, and enjoy a better quality of life as they age.

Start slowly



If your dog is not currently active, it’s advisable to book a veterinary exam before starting an exercise program. Seventy-five per cent of pets are overweight or obese, putting them at risk of a multitude of health problems and decreasing their life expectancy, explains Brett Warren, D.V.M., of Oakville Animal Clinic in Oakville, Ontario.


Sedentary, out-of-shape dogs have little enthusiasm for strenuous exercise, and for good reason – they huff and puff and ache just like humans do. “Dogs and their owners need to work their way up slowly to prevent injuries,” Clark emphasizes. Cardiovascular fitness and muscular strength take time to establish. The key is to build up your dog’s endurance slowly and systematically; walk before you run, and start with short workouts, gradually increasing the time and intensity.


If your dog is still a pup, you’ll want to take special precautions until its bones and joints have finished growing. “Exercise is good for puppies’ muscle development,” says Warren. But he cautions against high-impact activities until a pup is fully grown, explaining that young dogs are more susceptible to fractures, and a fracture across a growth plate could leave a dog with a deformed limb and lifelong disability. Puppies are also more susceptible to heat and cold, and their coordination is not yet fully developed so they tend to be clumsy and accident-prone.


Know when to stop


When planning your workouts, keep in mind that intensity should be in inverse proportion to duration – short bursts of intense activity like chasing a ball, or longer periods of moderate exercise like walking. Although some dogs have a low tolerance for physical activity and will quit before their owners break a sweat, many more will literally run till they drop. Don’t rely on your dog’s enthusiasm as evidence that all is well. Signs that it’s time to slow down include excessive panting, limping, stumbling, and pulling toward shade. How much exercise is enough depends on your dog’s breed, age and level of physical fitness. “Everything in moderation,” Warren advises. If your dog needs all day to recover from a workout, you’ve overdone it.


Benefit from diversity


The changing seasons not only offer a variety of workout options, they also require some special preparation. During winter outings, road salt can irritate paws and snow can accumulate between the toes, causing discomfort and even frostbite. Paws can also take a beating from running on hot pavement or rough gravel during warmer weather. And dogs can’t cool off as efficiently as humans can, so strenuous exercise during hot weather can be especially dangerous, putting dogs at risk for heat exhaustion. But the biggest seasonal risk factor, explains Warren, is weight gain due to inactivity during the winter months. Make an effort to stay active year-round, he advises, respecting extreme heat and cold weather warnings and saving your most intense workouts for spring and fall’s more moderate temperatures.


Both dogs and their humans benefit from diversity in intensity, frequency and duration of exercise.


Participating in a variety of activities not only starves off boredom, it ensures balance by working different muscle groups.


With a little creativity and effort, dog owners can come up with plenty of activities in their own neighbourhoods. “You don’t need expensive equipment or an elaborate dog park. You can work out anywhere with your dog,” Clark explains, adding that her dogs favour swimming during the summer months and fetching snowballs in wintertime. Spring and fall are ideal for hiking the trails at a conservation area or park, she says, using whatever nature provides to add interest to your workout – like slaloming around trees, jumping over boulders or sprinting up hills. Anything goes, as long as you’re active and having fun.






So whether you prefer a winter run through the city or an afternoon of swimming at the cottage, you’ve already got the perfect workout buddy – one that is always ready when you are, and whose enthusiasm will be a sure motivator to get you off the couch.






Tips for safe and healthy workouts


•Fast your dog for two to three hours prior to exercising, and don’t feed him immediately afterwards.


•Increase exercise duration and intensity gradually.


•Watch for signs of exhaustion and adjust your pace accordingly.


•Wear reflective accessories when exercising outdoors at night.


•Take the time to warm up before your workout and cool down afterwards to avoid sore muscles.


•Let a panting dog cool down and catch his breath before putting him into a hot car.


Your dog’s gym bag


If you’re driving to a park or conservation area for your workout, it’s a good idea to pack some essentials:


•water and bowl – add ice cubes in summer to keep the water cool


•a selection of leads – long, short and Flexi – to suit your needs


•a first-aid kit, including instant cold packs, bandages and Benadryl®


•a towel for drying off after swimming or wiping off muddy paws


•extra poop bags

Natalie Ann Comeau is a writer with a special interest in working canines. She lives in Oakville, Ont., with her family and three unemployed dogs.


In conclusion, I have always believed that a tired dog is a good dog. When dogs are mentally and physically tired they do not have the energy to get into trouble, they do not have the energy to start bad behaviours. By exercising your dog you will decrease the bad behaviour and increase your bond with your loving friend!

Dog Food and Allergies

So over the past month or so I've had to deal with some food allergies in my household. Not human to food allergies but dog to food allergy. I never thought much of it. She loves to roll in the grass/snow and itch her back, and she loves to itch her back on the rug. We thought she was obsessive compulsive about licking her front paws and the amount of hair she was shedding, WOW! This all started a couple years after I stopped feeding her the BARF (biologically appropriate raw food) diet.

Did you know that dogs can be allergic to certain foods. I always knew this but never paid much attention to it. I figured because I was feeding a grain-free raw kibble diet my dogs would be saved from allergies. Food allergies usually develop after the dog has been eating the same type of food for a number of years.

So what are the signs and symptoms of a dog that could be allergic to their food?
1. Itchy Skin
2. Ear Inflammation
3. Licking of the front paws
4. Red, irritated skin
5. Heavy shedding

More severe symptoms may include
1. Coughing, Wheezing, and Sneezing
2. Mucus discharge near their nose or eyes
3.Vomiting
4. Diarrhea

Some types of dogs are more prone to having an allergy to certain types of food. These breeds include, Beagles, Boxers, Bulldogs, Cocker Spaniels, Collies, Dalmations, Golden Retrievers, Irish Setters, Labrador Retrievers, Lhasa Apsos, Poodles, Pugs, Schnauzers, Shih Tzus and Terriers.

Most food allergies are gastro-intestinal (diarrhea and vomiting). A study by Jeff Wayman, DVM, says approximately 10 to 15% of all allergic skin diseases in dogs are caused by food allergies.

What can you do??
Check your dog food label for foods on the "hot list". These foods include, but don't limit, Chicken, Beef, Corn, Wheat, Soy, and Dairy.

Corn and Wheat are the main culprits to allergies in dog food. The sad thing is that Corn and Wheat are usually used as cheap fillers in dog food and too much of it can build up in your dogs system and cause an allergic reaction (remember dogs don't digest like we do).

So try changing your food to a higher quality meat source as the primary ingredient. It will take some dogs a week to notice the difference and some dogs up to 3 months. Have patience, keep track of the symptoms you see, and note when you started feeding your dog the new food. If your dog's symptoms do not decrease or disappear you may have another type of allergy to deal with.

The positive side to this is there are some great dog foods out on the market today. The best way to go is a BARF food diet. If BARF food doesn't fit into your lifestyle than there are some great BARF food kibbles out there. Talk to your local pet food store, they know there foods and what works well!

Behind the Pet Store

For anyone who has ever thought or bought a puppy from a Pet Store please read this and post it for others to read!

Did you know that the majority of puppies in pet stores come from puppy mills? There are different kinds of puppy mills, the type that are seen on this video clip and the backyard breeders. The backyard breeders are those that continuously breed their bitches back to back without giving her a break. Most are not registered with any affiliation and they do not care about the health of the bitch or her puppies. Just because someone says they own a kennel doesn't mean it's a respectable and responsible kennel!

Don't be naive people! Canada has many puppy mills and the majority of pet stores have puppies from them. Even in this town. Have you ever asked to see the records from that "cute puppy in the window"? Have you ever thought to ask where it came from or who it's parents were or is it registered with an accredited affiliation. I bet you they can't tell you any of that! Buyer beware.

Please, I beg of you NOT to buy that cute little puppy in the window. Why do you want to support this devastating business. Just to satisfy your impulse and our "need to have now" mentality! Think about it!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDxm8uv8huo This is the MUST WATCH!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZsCwOy5rdI  About Pet Land.... I don't think most people who work at Pet Land realize where the puppies come from.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVzSzS3kYgg&feature=fvwrel  National Geographic Channel short documentary.